How to sew culottes (pattern)

Pantaloons are cropped trousers fitted from above and flared from the hip. They were invented in the XVIII century for women practicing horseback riding, as riding a skirt is not very convenient, and it was not accepted to use a men's wardrobe, i.e. trousers. It was then that this style was invented, which combines the convenience of trousers and the appearance of a skirt.

REFERENCE! Translated from English, culottes mean a skirt-pants.

Recently, the culottes received a rebirth. Designers do not skimp on inventions and present to the public a variety of models: classic, sporty, highly flared, pleated, etc. The length of the trousers varies below the knee - above the ankle.

Sewing such trousers is not the most difficult task. Let's try to do it together.

Content

Pantaloons: Cutting and DIY Sewing
Preparatory process
Pattern
Cutting material
Sewing

Pantaloons: Cutting and DIY Sewing

We need to make only a few measurements of the figure.

We define the waist and hips, the circumference of the thigh and the height of the seat, and, of course, the length of our culottes.

Preparatory process

Before sewing the product, we decide which pants we want to see on ourselves. If culottes involve drapery from numerous folds, then it is worth choosing a light flowing material. The pants will be made of dense fabric.

The model we have chosen made of dense material is fixed on the side with a hidden zipper.

You will also need a standard set of tools:

sewing machine;
scissors;
pins
needles for machine and manual sewing;
foot of a sewing machine for sewing in secret zippers;
centimeter;
ruler;
pencil;
chalk or remnant.

Pattern

There are several ways to build a pattern of such trousers:

The easiest is to use a sewing pattern from the magazine, choosing your size from the ones presented.
The second option is applicable, if there is a pattern of a straight skirt, you can use it, slightly modeling.
Third, build a pattern from beginning to end "for yourself."

When choosing from ready-made patterns, first of all, you should focus on the measurement of waist circumference. If the rest of the dimensions are not entirely accurate for your figure, it is easy to write off the free style of the product.

We will build a pattern of culottes, relying on a pattern of a straight skirt.

REFERENCE! The measure of the height of the seat is measured while sitting on a chair, a centimeter tape goes from the waist line to the horizontal surface of the chair. Measurement of the thigh circumference is made horizontally, 5 centimeters below the hyoid fold.

Build the front part pattern:

We take a skirt pattern and from the point 1 down we postpone the seat height (point 2) + a couple of centimeters. From it to the left and up we postpone a length equal to 1/8 of the circumference of the thigh minus 2 cm (points 3 and 4, respectively), we connect these points. Draw the bisector of the angle formed by the segments 3.2 and 2.4. Through the middle of the bisector, we build a smooth line that forms a step cut.

We build a pattern of the back:

From point 5 down, we postpone the same length as from point 1 on the front panel (point 6). From it, lay to the right and up the length of 1/8 of the thigh circumference plus 2 cm (points 7 and 8, respectively), connect them. We draw the bisector from point 6. Divide it into two equal parts: 1/2 and 1/2 + 0.5 cm. Through the resulting point, draw a smooth line of the back step cut.

The pattern of the belt is performed directly on the fabric.

Cutting material

Since almost all fabrics shrink after washing, we erase and iron thoroughly before cutting.

Fold the canvas face to face and apply the details of the front and back of the trousers. We pin them with pins for convenience and draw around with chalk. Then we set aside allowances of 2 cm on each side, and from the bottom 5 cm and also draw around with chalk. Cut parts along the allowance line.

We are building a belt pattern. The length of the belt is equal to the waist circumference plus 3 cm, and the width is 8 cm.

Sewing

We process all sections of parts using an overlock. In its absence, you can use the zigzag stitch of the sewing machine.
We grind, and then grind the tucks. The line starts from the top cut, at the beginning of the seam the fastening is done, at the top of the tuck it is not done. Iron tucks to the center.
We knit the step seams, the middle seam and the side seams, leaving a place for a fastener. All seams on the trousers are made from top to bottom. To make the middle seam, you need to put one leg in the other, with the front side inward. We straighten the side and step lines completely, the middle line from the top to the beginning of the curve. Try on. If the pants have sat down well, you can sew all these seams on a typewriter.

We turn to the processing of the belt:

To give it rigidity, we glue the doubler from the wrong side. Then we fold it along in half, inside out, ironing the fold line.
We pin the belt with one side to the waist line, face to face. Turn off the edges of the belt. We knit, and then grind with a machine line.
Ironing allowances down.
Fold the belt in half, insert it inside and sew in a hidden zipper.

ATTENTION! To sew the zipper, use the special foot of the sewing machine.

Sew the lower inner edge of the belt manually to the stock. Ironing.
We bend the bottom by 1.5 cm, lay out the notched screeds, bend another 3 cm, scribble, try on. If the length suits, we lay the machine line at a distance of 2 cm from the edge.

The bottom can be processed in other ways: