How to sew a winter down jacket with your own hands
We take the oversize style as the basis, which continues to gain popularity among fashionistas. Today we ’ll try to sew a quilted down jacket with a hooded collar.
Materials and Tools
The outer material for sewing a down jacket can be polyamide, polyester or nylon. All of them consist of synthetic fibers, have increased wear resistance, do not crease, do not allow moisture and protect from wind. Polyamide is also good because it removes fumes and dries quickly. A distinctive feature of nylon is its lightness, increased water and vapor resistant properties.
ATTENTION! If you are supposed to wear a jacket in high humidity, it is better to choose a material with water-repellent impregnation.
In classic down jackets, waterfowl fluff is used as a filler, as it has natural water-repellent properties. Such fluff never sticks together and does not fall down, since sweat and skin fumes of a person do not settle on it. But to sew a jacket with such a filler for a beginning dressmaker will be very difficult, and it is not cheap, so we will focus on the simplest option - syntepon.
For sewing the pad, we choose polyester - a synthetic knitted fabric that looks like wool. It is affordable, easy to care for, anti-static and practically does not crease.
From the fittings we will need magnetic buttons, which we will use as a fastener.
Standard tool kit:
- sewing machine;
- overlock;
- scissors;
- tape measure;
- graph paper;
- pencil;
- a piece of chalk;
- needles, pins.
Pattern down jacket
The pattern will be as simple as possible, so make a minimum of measurements:
- down jacket length;
- back width;
- armhole height;
- the length of the sleeve
IMPORTANT! Taking measurements, you must immediately lay in them an increase in freedom of fit. For outerwear, it is about 8 cm.
Building a drawing of a pattern
- Down lay the width of the collar 25-30 cm + the desired length of the down jacket. At the collar level, draw a horizontal line. From the upper left to the right, we postpone the width, which is equal to the width of the back * 2 + the width of the smell (about 20 cm) + 6 cm.
- Mark the central axis. From it at an equal distance, lay armholes, 5 cm wide, 25-30 cm high.
- To build a sleeve pattern, build a rectangle. It can be made straight or narrowed. The width of the armhole is measured according to the drawing of the main part. The head of the sleeve is rounded.
Cutting materials
- We cut out the main part from the external material and synthetic winterizer.
- Additionally, we cut two pieces of collar and one collar from the same fabric.
- Sleeves are cut immediately from the outer fabric, lining and padding polyester.
IMPORTANT! It is necessary to leave 2.5 cm for allowances on each side and 5 cm for bottom processing.
The stages of tailoring a down jacket
- Slices of parts from the outer and lining fabrics are processed on an overlock or on a sewing machine using a zigzag stitch.
- We fold the main rectangle with the additional gate detail face to face, embroider, and then grind them on a sewing machine. Similarly, we sew two selections on the sides.
- We proceed to cutting the lining for the main part . We cut a rectangle of such a size as to fill the space on the wrong side between the kits and the collar.
- Carefully put inside the synthetic winterizer, combining the corners.
- On the front side with the help of a remnant, we outline the lines of lines along which we will quilting the canvas . To prevent the stitches from moving apart, we fix them with safety pins and lay out notched screeds using a thin needle. On the collar and kits, we sew (quilted) 3 layers of material, the outer one, the synthetic winterizer, the outer. In the place where the lining will be quilted 2 layers - the outer material + synthetic winterizer.
ATTENTION! So that the sintepon does not slip along the fabric, you should initially sew it around the perimeter. Since the fabric is dense enough, it is more advisable to use a walking or teflon foot of the sewing machine.
- Quilting the sleeves in the same way. When applying a synthetic winterizer to the sleeves, it is necessary to retreat 5 cm from the lower edge (cuff). The insulation is not sewn to the lower allowance, because it is intended for inward folding and joining with a lining.
- We are laying shoulder seams on a typewriter. So that in future the down jacket does not slip off the shoulders, we make two parallel seams at a distance of 2 cm from each other and insert a lace into them, which will be pulled around the neck. The lace can be taken ready, but it is better to sew from the main fabric.
- Stitch the side seams of the sleeve from the outer fabric (which is already quilted with synthetic winterizer) from the wrong side, then grind the side seam of the sleeve liner. Fold the lining and the main sleeve face to face, stitch the lower sections. We turn out and insert the lining inside. Then he tucks the cuff inward, slips it, irons it and we lay a decorative seam along the front side at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge.
- We sew sleeves into the "body" of the jacket. To do this, find the centers of the okat and connect them with the shoulder seams. Puncture them in the armholes with safety pins and try in such a way that a small landing is formed. We make a machine seam, the upper thread should pass along the details of the sleeve.
- Sew in the main part of the pad. To do this, put the main part with a synthetic winterizer up and connect it to the lining on three sides, except for the hem.
- We turn the down jacket over the bottom edge and pin it up, take it in, and then sew on a typewriter a lining to the main material. We do the line without reaching the middle of about 10 cm. On the other hand, we do the same operations. We turn out the jacket. Bend and iron the middle. Using safety pins, we fix the unbroken section and sew it manually with hidden screeds. The lining is sewn.
- Sew magnetic buttons at an even distance from each other.
- In addition to the buttons, you can add a belt. We cut it directly onto the fabric. The width of the belt part, taking into account the allowances, is 10 cm, the length is 150 cm. For added rigidity, we glue the wrong side with non-woven or doubler. Sew short sections on the inside. We twist, ironing. We make a hem along a long cut of 0.5 - 0.7 cm, iron. We plan and lay a decorative stitch on the front side at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge.
The down jacket is ready!
