A skirt is a piece of clothing that covers the waist. Its length changed depending on fashion trends. From strict cuts to heels. To frank mini. Skirts with a slit and pleated, tight or lush - variations of styles are diverse. The whole history of fashion in this wardrobe.
Reference. A loincloth of animal skins worn by ancient people is considered the prototype of a modern skirt. She performed an exclusively protective function. It was worn by both men and women, regardless of age.
The birthplace of the famous pleated plaid skirt is Scotland. The first dated references are found already in the sixteenth century. She is described as an outerwear that encircles her waist. Of woolen fabric of various colors, with many folds. With a length reaching the middle of the calves. And we are talking about the traditional male attire of the local highlanders. Why did they wear skirts? The terrain with gentle slopes, streams and swamps assumed for free movement clothing that does not hinder movements. At the same time, warm and quick-drying in the wind.
Reference. Natural dyes used for tinting fabric threads made it possible to determine the color of the canvas from which locality a person is.
- Who wore
- Modern tendencies
National Scottish men's costume - kilt. The name comes from the Scandinavian languages and means things with assembly in a fold. This is a wraparound skirt. Traditionally, from non-creasing wool.
A diverse checkered pattern is achieved by the technique of weaving multi-colored threads along and across the canvas. This forms a sequential pattern of stripes of various colors. The number of colors, their combination on the fabric can tell about the social status and belonging to a particular clan of a person wearing a kilt.
Reference. Tartan - a checkered ornament on a thick woolen fabric for kilts, has established patterns of colors. In Scotland, it is now a moral violation to wear a registered tartan without belonging to a particular clan.
Kilt was originally a plaid of two pieces of fabric. Up to 8 meters in length and 6 in width, it was called the "Big Kilt". Men girded around him, and a long train was thrown over his shoulder. The lower part was folded and secured with leather belts with buckles on the belt. Folds allowed to increase the length of the canvas. They hid from the weather with the upper part, using as a cloak or hood. Also, the kilt served as a coverlet for long wanderings and field conditions for overnight stays in the open. Coarse dense fabric is able to serve for many years without rubbing and without losing its attractiveness.
By the eighteenth century, the subject of a traditional men's costume had changed. Thomas Rawlins from Lancashire invited his workers to get rid of voluminous trains of skirts that interfere with production. To determine the comfortable length, men squatted down, and the edges of the fabric creeping along the floor were cut off. Other workers followed suit. Kilt without a cape was nicknamed the "small kilt." It is under him that they mean the Scottish skirt.
Scottish traditional costume has various variations. For practical reasons, the Great Kilt was clothed with warlike Scottish highlanders. For their many battles, he is still considered a symbol of independence and courage. They were the first men in plaid skirts.
The national men's suit, in addition to the kilt, includes a belt leather bag - sporran and a miniature knife. It became a common vestment for the military and not only nobles after several centuries - in the nineteenth century.
Reference. Highlanders did not wear underwear under a kilt. This tradition persisted for a long time, even when the "small kilt" became a common wardrobe item among Scottish men.
The number of colors on the fabric of the Scottish skirt indicated estate. The simpler, the lower in the hierarchy. For servants relied monochromatic kilts. Simple patterns of two colors - villagers. A sign of the military is a tartan of three colors. The higher the rank, the more. Checkered kilt of six colors, as a rule, was worn by artists: speakers and bards. A complex ornament with a lot of flowers could only be worn by a leader. The title was inherited, as were the colors of distinction.
Gradually, the wearing of a kilt began to spread among residents of nearby countries through wandering Scots: Ireland, Isle of Man, UK.
Reference. The British crown, in punishment for the participation of the Scots in the Jacobin rebellion, forbade the use of tartans and the wearing of kilts for men. Obligatory to wear pants. The restriction was valid until 1822. But wayward men, faithful to traditions, violated him until this time: they wore trousers not on themselves, but with themselves. Thus, the kilt has become a distinctive symbol of Scottish rebellion.
As an element of the Scottish military uniform, the kilt can still be seen during the parade procession, at public servants, during ceremonies. In modern Scotland, men dress in ceremonial national costumes exclusively on holidays. As a sign of patriotism, he is worn during solemn events for the country. And not only in Scotland. For example, during a football cup.
Reference. Kilt pin - a pin that is attached to make the fabric heavier so that it does not rise in the wind and does not bulge when walking. Historically, it is fixed on the outside of the kilt, for the possibility of easily unfastening if necessary. Performs a decorative function. The pin often has symbolic forms: a sword, a dagger with clover or in the form of a thistle flower.
Checkered print has stood the test of time. It is readily used by modern fashion designers. A skirt in a cage, as a tribute to tradition, is called a "plaid". Length and style have various variations. The size of the cage and the color scheme allows you to choose a skirt for all types of figures.
In the 1970s. a stylish fashion designer from Scotland, Ray Petri came to London. Inspired by the rebellious spirit of the streets of the time. He combined accessories from subcultures with unpredictable ethnic elements. Founded the Buffalo Fashion House. He created extraordinary images of men in Scottish skirts. Later, inspired Jean-Paul Gaultier to create a collection of modern kilts or skirts for men.
Reference. In 2003, the exhibition "Bravehearts: Men in Skirts" was held in New York. Her goal was to attract public attention not to the traditional Scottish skirt, but to popularize the skirts in the men's wardrobe. For this, the representative of the exhibition walked several blocks in a skirt. Then he concluded that only a brave man who is not afraid of judgmental glances can wear a skirt.
Discreet checked skirts are already a classic of strict dress code. Perfectly combined with a plain shirt. The colors of Scottish skirts of bright colors, shorter lengths are laconic in the stylish "college" direction. In addition with a fitted jacket, in the English manner and classic shoes balance the image.
A voluminous knitted sweater or monotonous T-shirt, denim shirt - you can combine almost any top with a Scottish skirt, both in color and texture. The same goes for shoes.
Currently, the Scottish skirt is mainly a women's wardrobe item. But, who knows, changeable fashion often brings surprises.