The folds themselves vary in direction and shape, creating a business image or a frivolous yoke. They do not lose relevance, therefore, choosing the appropriate skirt, you will always look fashionable.
A variety of styles of pleated skirts
Length
Depending on the length, several types of products are distinguished.
- Maxi The length ranges from traditional “to the floor” to “ankle-deep”. Makes a woman slender, helping to hide flaws.
- Midi . Long below the knee line, but above the ankle mark. Suitable for tall beauties, and for low can conceal an already low growth.
- Mini It does not reach the knees approximately the distance of the palm. Looks great on proportionally folded girls with beautiful legs, regardless of height.
- Micro. A very short product that slightly covers the buttock line. It can be worn in summer on vacation, but the figure should be perfect.
Models
Among the well-known styles of pleated skirts are the following.
- Pencil : straight cut, up to the knee line, fits the figure. Ideal in classic and business styles.
- Tulip : the cut resembles this flower - the hips are hidden, the bottom is narrowed.
- A-line : the shape is associated with this letter, expanding from the waist down, like a trapezoid.
- Bell : has the shape of a bell, sits freely on the hips.
- Godet : tailored exactly to the shape and only at the very bottom expands in the form of a fish.
- In the fold : cut free, from the waist there are tucks of the desired size in the corresponding amount.
- Plisse : sewn from the material into the same small fold, has a loose fit.
- Cargo : a straight-cut army-style product with a multitude of décor featuring loops and pockets.
- Skirt-shorts : sewn in the form of two halves of wide shorts or with an addition in the form of a flap of fabric on top.
- Skirt-trousers : perfectly combine the features of a strict suit and casual comfortable clothing. Volumetric legs look like a skirt.
Important! Modern designers use pleats on almost any style of women's skirts.
How to sew a pleated skirt
Folds and their originality
Varieties of such pinches are diverse. They can be one-sided, oncoming, bow, fan . Such tucks are made in different ways: they can be right on the belt, partly stitched, ironed and soft .
This item has a width and depth. The full-volume fold in depth has a size of more than two widths.
Important! To reduce tissue consumption, the assembly is made incomplete by reducing its depth.
The dropping form is maintained thanks to the brace, which "disappears" in the waist area. The length of this element is determined by the height of the fly-off, which is a free section where the line is not stitched . The brace of the lower part of the product decreases with flying away.
Pucks are laid along the arrows on the outside of the matter. Whereas their marking is done from the inside with a special chalk or felt-tip pen.
A paper pattern in this case is not needed, it is carried out directly on the fabric.
The folding rib of the external plan is taken in accordance with the brace and is brought to the next brace (marked with blue lines). The rib of the inner part is drawn by a dotted line.
Oncoming pleated skirt
This element is represented by two single-sided assemblies that dock with each other. The stitched section starts at the waist and ends with a mark on the hip line.
To make a drawing, we make an incision in the center of the front pattern and lay on both parts the beams of the required depth. Without fail, we form a brace and outline the height of departure - its outer edge. These details should be laid towards the center.
Before making markings, a hem, ironed inside out, is flashed along the bottom of the skirt.
The algorithm for creating bends of the oncoming type can be seen in the photo: both lines of departure are cleaved with pins and darted off.
Stitch the pin to the mark level, smooth it with a hot iron, remove the twine thread.
Bowknot Skirt
This element is formed by two one-sided assemblies diverging in opposite directions from the center. From the inside, the oncoming fold is obtained. Such details, which are called counter or bow, across the entire width of the skirt can be many.
The algorithm for the formation of the bow option is shown in detail in the bottom photo. We draw the brush along the contour of the take-off, smooth it with a hot iron, twist the pinches to the center line of the front half.
We sew alternately all the beams, starting from the waist to the mark line.
Fan pleated skirt
This is the same counter variation, only including several similar ones at once.
This model can be open and closed .
The fold of the closed type, when it is not opened, is very similar to the usual oncoming fold . But the braces are found only in the upper ones, which go “on the face”.
In the bottom picture you can see the closed model of the assembly from the inside and the upper side.
An open version is cut with slopes on each of the folds .
In this situation, to reduce the thickness due to the multilayer density of dense matter, an interesting technique can be applied. We measure the tucks, mark the length of the seams and cut off the excess material, leaving a few centimeters on the seams.
Fold the tucks, iron with a hot iron, grab the top with a thread.
Stitch the assemblies horizontally so as not to diverge.
Partially-pleated skirt
Skirt skins sometimes partially cover up, starting from the very top to a certain length. Most often, it does not exceed three quarters of the vertical size. Optimal - to the femoral mark.
Below you can see the ratio of the brace to the fly. It is clearly seen that as the line goes down, the brace gradually decreases .
Important! Based on the cut of a straight skirt, you can build any other folds.
Skirts in circular pleats
To sew such a skirt, you need to make a number of calculations, as well as carefully delve into the process of cutting.
Preparation for cutting
We will figure out what the required footage of the fabric is and what is the principle of its cutting.
Important! Fabric with a width of 3 m 21 cm is not available, which means that you will have to use cuts whose width is 0.9 m, 1 m 10 cm, 1 m 40 cm, 1 m 50 cm.
In these cases, the seams must be hidden on the inner edges of the bends .
Before marking them up on matter, first we bend both patterns from below and iron them to the desired size . All marks are put from the inside of the fabric.
On top we lay aside one and a half to two centimeters and draw a horizontal line across the entire width of the material. Here will be the waist. From this line we measure out about 20 centimeters and draw a parallel femoral line.
Creasing
Since the joint seams in the volume of the skirt will be formed on the inner ribs, you need to apply marking starting from the edge of the cut, leaving a centimeter allowance for the seam .
- We measure ½ of the folding depth and draw a vertical segment, guided by the shared threads of matter. It is from this line that we outline such repeated quantities as the number of boring, such as width and depth .
- Having marked all the tucks, on the bottom mark we postpone the slope, and on the waist - its narrowing by half a centimeter on both sides of their depth. The resulting points are connected by blue lines.
- In this case, a fabric with a width of 1 m 40 cm is enough to form eleven folds, and the skirt fully accommodates twenty-six. Thus, for a fully pleated skirt, three cuts with a width of 1 m 40 cm are necessary. The remaining material can be put on the hem of the belt.
- To calculate the cut length for the skirt in this example, taking into account the hem and flaps for the seams, we use the following formula: 3 x (Skirt length + 2 + 4) = 3 x (70 + 2 + 4) = 2 m 28 cm.
- The next step: we combine the external fold with the adjacent pin, mark the thread with marking.
- Manually sew each crease from top to bottom . For the sewn stitches we make a line down to the selected length.
- We finish the work with a fastener or a transverse seam to the inner bend . Thread basting while leaving in place.
- We straighten the assembly along the arrows and iron it with a hot iron from the face, remove the bobbin thread .
Useful Tips for Sewing Pleated Skirts
- The folds will retain their shape longer if you iron them on both edges from the inside and from the face.
- The pieces cut out of the cardboard, enclosed from the inside, will help to avoid the imprints of the lines of the internal folds on the upper side.
- The front assembly on the skirt should be duplicated on the lining fabric .
- The cut of the lining skirt is sewn to the main one at the very top, and then the fabric belt is already sewn. The seam is internally treated with a string in a tone lining or overlock.
- If the fabric for the skirt is taken heavy and dense, then the folds on the lining fabric should be replaced with recesses.
Sewing skirts with pleats is a simple matter, you can do it yourself. One has only to show a little attention and ingenuity. This creative work will cheer you up and give you an expanse of irrepressible imagination.
