The last few fashion seasons have breathed new life into long-forgotten things, such as waist bags or straight skirts. Appearing at the end of the last century, they became one of the most versatile items of women's wardrobe that can be worn in a feast and in the world. Today, previously considered a “uniform” for teachers and librarians, a straight-cut skirt at the peak of popularity among both adult business women and young girls who combine it with rude boots and sneakers. A lot of models, including classic and elastic. It is worth exploring step by step how to sew a straight skirt quickly and easily.
How to build a pattern for a straight skirt for a beginner
Sometimes it happens that even among a huge assortment of clothes sold in boutiques and online stores, a woman can’t find a suitable option for herself, as in the famous film about the exact same dressing gown, but only with mother-of-pearl buttons. Having walked several tens of kilometers along the corridors of shopping centers and browsing hundreds of web pages, many girls come to the conclusion that the thing you like is much easier to sew than to find on sale.
Those who are not friends with a needle and thread turn to professional dressmakers for help, who can sew almost any outfit in a short time and a certain monetary reward. The main advantage of the appeals in the studio engaged in custom-tailoring is that the thing a priori suits the customer in shape and size, and will meet all his wishes.
Important! In order for the time-consuming process to succeed, you need to correctly build a pattern, according to which the fabric prepared for sewing the skirt will be cut. The correctness of the pattern directly depends on how accurately the measurements will be taken from the future owner of the skirt.
Girls who attended labor lessons at school and sewed kitchen aprons and dresses for dolls on patterns, and still have not forgotten the basics of cutting and sewing, it will be much more interesting to sew your favorite model of a skirt on your own.
Reference! Measures are called the distances between the points of the human body, which make up the settlement and measuring system of the parameters of the figure. In mass production, standard tables are used; in individual production, measurements are taken from each person separately.
To sew a straight skirt, you need to find out:
- Half / Waist. Measure it with a centimeter tape at the narrowest point of the waist, at the level of the elbow.
- Half circumference / hip circumference. Given the protruding stomach and pelvic bones, it is measured by the most prominent point on the buttocks.
- The length to the hips. The standard is considered DLB 20cm, take a run from 18 to 26cm.
- Product length. The reference point is the waistline.
Attention! Taking measurements of such a plan is made from a woman who previously took off her shoes and undressed to underwear.
Another significant point in taking measurements is an increase in freedom of love. It is called the amount by which the size of the clothes will exceed the actual size of the person. At the waist, it should be no more than one and a half centimeters, at the hips - from 0.5 to 2.5 cm.
After taking measurements, you can begin to build a pattern. For this process you will need:
- graph paper (tracing paper, whatman, the remains of wallpaper);
- hard ruler;
The construction of the circuit can be divided into several stages. For example, the following parameters were taken:
- OT - 72 cm;
- ABOUT - 100 cm;
- CI - 72 cm.
- Having spread the paper prepared in advance on the floor and stepping back 5 cm from the top, point “A” is placed in the upper left corner. Vertically down from point “A”, it is necessary to postpone 72 cm and put point “D”.
- To the right of point “A”, measure the half-circumference of the hips taking into account 1 cm increase (51 cm) and put the point “B”.
- Points "B" and "D" are connected to each other at point "C", which should be located in the lower right corner of the pattern.
- The segment "DS" is divided in half and from the resulting point raise the perpendicular to the line "AB". The result should be a side line.
- The line of the hips is determined by laying off from the point "A" down 20 cm - point "AL". A line is drawn from it, the lateral points of which are given the designation "L1" and "L2".
- Tucks are calculated using a specific formula. In our case, it looks like this: 100 (OB) - 72 (OT) / 2 = 14 cm. Of the fourteen centimeters, it is important not to forget to remove half the distance to the side tucks: 14/2 = 7 cm - 3.5 cm for each tuck . Two straight lines to points 3.5 are drawn from the clarified side line, adding 1 cm upwards to them.
- Points “A” and “B” are connected by a curved line.
- The segment “LL2” is divided into two equal parts and a perpendicular line is raised from the division point, which should reach the segment “AB”.
- From the point "B1" measure 5-6 cm to the right (the line in the figure is indicated in red). Lower the perpendicular to the line of the hips.
- The area remaining at the waist after all calculations is distributed to the rear and front tucks.
- The lateral lines are divided into two parts and set aside from dividing marks by half a centimeter, drawn by hand or with the help of a pattern.
Attention! The length of the grooves along the rear and front halves is 13 and 10 cm, respectively. For beauty, you can take them a little to the left. It is important to consider that the deeper the tuck, the longer it is.
For convenience, ready-made schemes are recommended to be transferred to tracing paper and cut out separately.
How to sew a straight skirt yourself
Cutting the fabric is the next important step in self-tailoring a straight skirt.
Attention! When cutting, it is important to consider the direction of the fabric threads. If the parts are cut without taking into account the direction of the shared one, and the weft yarn, the finished product will lose its shape or become deformed during wear.
Parts of the pattern are laid on the wrong side of the fabric, pinned with needles and circled with thin chalk or a dried piece of cosmetic soap. The allowances are marked with a ruler. Leave 1 cm at the top, 4 at the bottom, 2 in the center and 2 cm at the sides. A belt is plotted at the bottom of the fabric duplicating details on a dense non-woven fabric. After that, the details are cut out with long tailoring scissors.
After this, lay the sewn stitches on the cut parts. Lay them with a regular needle and thread, using threads of a contrasting color from the fabric. Stitches should be wide and loose, thread not tightened.
Attention! A skirt connected with basting stitches can be tried on. This must be done very carefully so as not to stumble on a needle sticking out of the fabric.
The first fitting should show whether the product fits the figure, whether the size and length are suitable. If the skirt turned out to be large, the excess fabric is picked up at the seams, if, on the contrary, it is pressed, the fabric is released from under the lateral stitching lines.
After trying on, the sewing process is as follows:
- A non-woven taped belt is applied to the skirt and pinned with a pin to the fabric. On the skirt mark the junction and the edges of the belt around the waist.
- Clarify the existing defects and, if any, eliminate them.
- Make a second fitting.
- Overlock process slices.
- Stitch the side seams by ironing / ironing them on the back.
- Sew zipper stitches into the back seam with stitching stitches, sewing on the machine to the mark where the cut will begin. On the front side of the skirt, the stitch should be 5 mm from the teeth, the seam is from top to bottom, the product is deployed near the lock and another seam is made 1 cm long. From the inside of the skirt, another seam is made from the bottom up through the zipper.
- After removing the stitching stitches, the zipper is well ironed. After combining the middle of the front and the middle of the back on top of the product, the zipper is unzipped.
- From the marked line of the belt lay 1 cm for the seam, the rest of the fabric is cut off. In order not to diverge the intended grooves and seams, they are fastened with needles. The prepared belt is connected “face to face” with the main part, the slices are combined, connected and worn all together from the wrong side. Covering the edge of the belt from the inside with its other side, they make the machine line in a superscript manner.
- The bottom and section of the skirt are wrapped (first, then second), overlapping the lower section. When flashing, stitches are made from left to right, placing them along the bent edge of the skirt. It is important not to pierce the main canvas, but to capture only part of it. The stitches are 5mm long.
- At the end of the work, the finished skirt is cleaned of traces of soap and thread scraps, and ironed well from the inside, trying not to deform the fabric with an iron in the process. After the fabric has cooled, a loop is made in the upper part of the belt at a distance of 1 cm from the edge and a button is sewn on its opposite side. The place where the button should be located is determined when the zipper is closed.
How to decorate a straight skirt
So that the skirt does not look too strict and boring, it can be decorated with lace, braid, embroidery or decorative buttons, rhinestones or beads. This can be done both in the process of sewing, and after the skirt is completely ready. Let's consider some interesting options:
- Lace decoration. Recently, lace trim is considered one of the most fashionable tricks. You can combine a decorated lace skirt with any “top” and wear it both for a walk, and for work or study. Most often, the lace ribbon is let on the bottom of the skirt, since this is considered the simplest way that does not require any effort or expense. Sew the decor both manually and with a sewing machine. One of the tricks of using such a decor is that I use a tight, almost opaque lace, a skirt sewn at the bottom can be made a little longer. Also, alongside, you can give a little fabulous look if you sew lace with layers, starting from the top of the product and ending with its bottom. Black straight skirts with white or beige lace are especially interesting.
- Braid decoration. To add spice and chic to such a simple wardrobe item as a straight-cut skirt, a multi-colored braid sewn to the fabric will help.
- Embroidery decoration. Embroidered items are found in the collections of almost every famous fashion designer. Today, skirts, blouses and trousers with embroidered satin colors and other patterns are a real “must-have”, which should be in the wardrobe of every fashionista. It is not at all necessary to embroider clothing manually, you can do it much easier and purchase ready-made embroidery and a specialized store. It is attached to the fabric either with a hot iron or with a thread and a needle.
- Decoration with rhinestones. A boring straight skirt can be refreshed with a scattering of pearl beads or shiny rhinestones. They are sold in any sewing store and are attached to a special glue or sewn with thread. From rhinestones and beads, you can lay out a certain pattern or arrange them on a fabric in a chaotic manner.
It will be much easier for those who learn to cut and sew straight skirts or any other clothes on their own to create their own and unique style. The main thing is to have at hand the necessary tools, materials and the desire to create something with your own hands.