We will analyze in detail how to sew a fur coat from different materials.
What do you need to sew a fur coat with your own hands?
The main thing is the material for work:
- Natural fur can be purchased in specialized stores or from hunters in the form of separate skins. Working with this material requires certain specialized knowledge and is one of the most difficult areas in sewing.
- Faux fur can be found in almost any fabric store. Working with it is much easier than with a natural counterpart. This material is much cheaper in price, and it is not so scary to spoil it, it is sold in the form of a single web, like a regular fabric.
- Old fur canvases, for example, in the form of a fur coat and vest, which can be converted into a new fur coat. In this case, one must understand that if there are scuffs and unaesthetic places on the material, then they will have to be removed.
- Lining material. Often satin or satin is used as a lining for a fur coat; they are usually inexpensive. The product is given a rich look due to its smooth shiny surface, and also these materials are very wear-resistant and retain their shape well during use.
- Tailored sharpened scissors or furrier knife, the second option is preferable when working with natural fur.
- Clothespins are also needed for working with natural fur.
- Hammer with a soft silicone head or wrapped in cloth.
- Chalk, soap or helium ballpoint pen in bright colors.
- Metal long ruler.
- Safety pins.
- Small nails (when working with natural fur).
- Tape measure.
- Punch for installing accessories and nozzles for him.
- Furrier needles for a machine having three faces or gypsy needles.
- Hairbrush.
- Thimble.
- Accessories are decorative and functional.
How to calculate the required footage for a fur coat?
To understand how much material is needed to make a fur coat, you need to decide on its style - will it be a fur coat to the knee or lower, or maybe a flared short fur coat?
- The length of the product, which is determined from the upper shoulder point to the preferred length.
- The length of the sleeve is also determined from the upper point of the shoulder to the desired length.
- Product style . For example, if a fur coat is planned with a straight or slightly flared silhouette, with a size of 42-48 and a canvas width of about 150 cm, then one length of the product is enough. For sizes starting at 50, two lengths are already taken. A fur coat with a large flare or smell needs two lengths, regardless of size.
- All decoratively constructive elements, such as a hood, collar, and belt, require approximately another 0.5 to 0.8 m of material, depending on the size of the elements. Fur coats are made quite rarely, but sometimes they are still made of suede or leather, or a one-piece collar is made. Most often, the lining goes to the very edge of the product, while the fur is tucked inward. Elements such as patch pockets are cut out from the remnants of the base material.
- Allowances for seam processing, and, in rare cases, for shrinkage of the fabric, give from 10 to 20 cm.
- If the product is planned from different types of fur, then for each of the parts the footage will be calculated separately, for this it is necessary to take the height of these parts.
- The footage of the lining is calculated based on the length of the product plus the length of the sleeve.
Subtleties of working with different types of fur
The main differences in working with natural and artificial fur are that:
- Natural fur requires preparation, and if it is planned to work with small skins, they must be combined into a single fabric.
- Faux fur lends itself well to processing on a household sewing machine, while natural fur must be sewn either manually or on a special vertical furrier machine.
Patterns of fur coats and transfer patterns to the canvas
For a fur coat, it is easiest to take the finished one, while you can use patterns of coats of different silhouettes. Once the pattern is printed or transferred from the magazine to paper, you can begin to transfer the patterns to the material.
Faux Fur Coat
- To transfer the patterns to the fabric of faux fur, it is necessary to take into account that a long pile is cut in its direction, it is permissible to cut a short pile in an arbitrary direction.
- Stitch the details from eco-fur with straight lines, and then on the front side at the seams pull the pile out of the seams with a needle or a stripper.
- Excess fur, if it is long and thick, must be removed from the allowances by cutting it off.
- The details of faux-fur products are not duplicated by adhesive-based materials in order to avoid damage to the main fabric.
- Excess volume in the places of bending is removed by heat treatment.
- It is not recommended to subject faux fur to wet-heat treatment, but if there is a special need, for example, to iron the seams, you can heat-treat the areas without steam and an iron press - a piece of natural fabric, usually cotton, white. The iron should be slightly heated during surgery.
- If the main material is thin and unable to independently hold its shape, then it is recommended to reinforce the sashes and shoulder seams with strips of cotton fabric so that the seams do not creep. At the same time, the lining must be present in the product.
Important! Do not forget that if the fur has a pattern, then there is a need to adjust it even at the layout stage of the patterns.
Natural fur coat
- Since working with natural fur involves a set of specific skills, for a start it is better to work out on an old well-worn product that can be found at home or purchased at a flea market.
- Items made of natural fur must be sewn either manually or on a special furrier machine, as ordinary household machines will greatly stretch the seams or tear the fabric.
- To sew any product made of natural fur, it is necessary to connect the skins among themselves, unfold them and straighten the seam, and then carefully tap the seams on the seamy side with a hammer. This is done in order to get even and flat seams, the edges of which are ideally joined with each other.
5. Hand stitches are made with slight slack, while all stitches should be done with the same tension.
6. To avoid deformation of some sections or parts of the fur coat, it is necessary to duplicate them with cushioning material.
7. All seams with a large load, for example, shoulder, armhole or neck seams, must be additionally reinforced with cotton tapes.
8. Interconnected fur coats are stretched on a wooden surface with small cloves and a hammer, while the cloth is first moistened a little with water from the wrong side. This operation allows you to align the seams and the skins themselves, as well as, in some cases, increase the size of the canvas.
9. The joints of the skins are treated with a special metal comb.
10. The skins should match in the consistency of the pile, length and shade.
Scheme for the pattern of a fur coat with a stand-up collar:
Models of fur coats made of natural fur are best viewed in catalogs. Mink coats with a stand-up collar look stylish. They look spectacularly long scarves, stoles, which can be tied differently every day, creating a new image.
Important! Please note that the skins are covered exclusively with a blade or a special boot knife, but in no case with scissors that damage the fur itself, this also applies to artificial material.
Faux fur coat
- The same patterns on which we cut out the main parts, we transfer to the lining and, if any, insulation, do not forget about the allowances for grinding, we cut them out.
- Stitching the details of a fur coat on a typewriter . Allowances need to be cut a little so that they are invisible.
- We assemble and grind the lining alone or with a heater . We process the edges on the overlock.
- It's time to attach the main part to the lining . To do this, we fold the parts face to face, fasten with pins, insert the lining of the sleeve into the sleeve of the base and flash it on the machine. Then grind the neck and side sections of the shelf.
- We turn the product to the front side.
- We take out with a needle all the fur that got into the lines with a needle and comb the fur coat well.
- Carefully process the bottom cut of the product.
Now it ’s up to the hardware of your choice . It is best to use either button buttons or buttons with loops as fasteners in such fur coats, and you can also sew on hooks.
The product is ready!
