A-line skirt is a versatile wardrobe item. This model fits tightly around the waist and expands downward.
What measurements are needed
To build a drawing, you should take a centimeter tape and measure the half circumference of the hips and waist, as well as the desired length of the product. It is also necessary to decide on increases in freedom of movement. At the waist, it is recommended to take from 0.5 to 1 cm, and from the hips from 1 to 2 cm. These figures are based on the desired fit of the product to the body, and also depend on the style of the skirt and the texture of the material.
IMPORTANT ! If the material stretches well and it is planned to sew the product adjacent to the waistline, then it is better to take the minimum increase, about 0.5 cm.
The basis of the pattern
For work, you can take a ready-made pattern of the base of the skirt.
You can also build a basic pattern yourself.
The construction of the drawing is based on the pattern of an ordinary skirt with two seams. You need to take a large sheet of paper or a roll of unnecessary wallpaper, a pencil, a ruler and perform the following sequence of actions.
- First, draw an angle of 90 degrees, the top of which is denoted by the letter "T". The long stretch to the right will be the waistline. From the T mark, we postpone the desired length of the skirt.
- Next, you need to identify the line of the hips . We measure with a ruler from the letter T down 20 cm and put the letter "B". From it we draw a horizontal line.
- Then we find the point "B1". It is equal to the half-waist, with the addition of an increase in freedom of fit. From this letter we draw a vertical line, getting the marks “T1” and “H1”.
- We fix where the side seam will be . To do this, divide the product width in half and reduce 1 cm. The resulting figure should be postponed from point B to the right. We denote it as B2 and draw a vertical line through it to the intersection with the segments of the waist and bottom.
- Next, you need to determine the total solution of tucks . It is equal to the difference between the half-circumference of the hips and waist with increments.
- We consider the position of the rear tuck by multiplying the length of the BB2 segment by a factor of 0.4. The back fold solution is determined by multiplying the resulting number by a factor of 0.35.
- We find the tuck position of the front of the product by multiplying the length of the segment B1B2 by a factor of 0.4. The solution of the back tuck is determined by multiplying the resulting number by a factor of 0.15.
- The remaining amount of tuck solution is distributed on the side seams.
ATTENTION! The number and volume of tucks depends on the type of figure.
It is recommended that you first use the formulas, and then make a layout and adjust the tucks after fitting.
Modeling a-line skirt pattern
The construction of a trapezoidal shape comes down to expanding the drawing of a straight skirt . This can be done by postponing from the side cut along the bottom line from each side from 3 to 7 cm.
For a more beautiful fit of the product, it is necessary to close the tucks at the waist . First, cut the pattern from the darts to the bottom and close the tucks. At the bottom, the expansion should be uniform, while a wider tuck in the back may not close completely . Therefore, two small tucks may remain behind . The bottom of both elements should be almost the same.
How to sew a trapeze skirt
When the pattern is drawn, it is necessary to prepare the fabric, crayon, pattern and scissors.
Consider the preparatory process in stages.
- After the fabric is ironed, it is folded in half and with the front sides and the pattern is laid on it. In this case, the middle of the front should be adjacent to the bend of the material . If possible, then the back of the skirt is better to cut the whole. In this case, the fastener can be placed in the side seam.
- We circle the resulting drawings with a piece of chalk and add a couple of centimeters for processing. It is advisable to leave 2–4 cm on the bottom hem, and up to 1 cm on the top.
- We cut out the belt, depending on the model of the product. It must also be drawn in advance. Usually its width is determined by the preferences of the master, and the length is equal to the waist circumference plus 4–5 cm for the fastener and seam processing . As a belt, you can also use decorative elastic.
Completing of the work
Next, you can start sewing the product. Follow a certain sequence of actions.
Step-by-step instructions for sewing a trapeze skirt for beginners .
- First you need to sew tucks on the skirt. They are ironed in the middle.
- Next, connect the front and back of the pattern with each other and sew the parts along the side seams. They must be ironed on the back.
- Then you can start processing the belt . It must be glued with a duplicate fabric and, having connected in half, ironed well. This will make it more accurate.
- The belt is connected to the skirt along the waist line using pins . There should be a loose tip for the clasp.
- The belt is sewn on the machine, and the allowance is folded up and ironed.
- Then bend the half of the belt to the front of the skirt and stitch its ends.
- A belt folded in half is fixed with pins and stitched from the front of the product at a distance of 1 mm from it.
- Processing of the bottom can be done using adhesive fabric, or you can do the usual bending and flash it on a typewriter.
The long and short models differ not in the sewing process, but only in the length of the side seam, which is several times longer. Therefore, the time for sewing the product needs a little more.
How to sew a trapeze skirt with an elastic band
One of the simple and affordable styles for sewing are things with elastic bands. On sale you can find spectacular decorative gum. They are soft and comfortable to sew on. To sew a trapezoid on an elastic band, follow simple steps:
- The length of the elastic is determined only by the circumference of the waist. The elastic should be taken shorter than a couple of cm, because during stretching it stretches.
- We connect the sides, first flashing the wrong side, and then fixing the seam across the face.
- We put the elastic around the skirt so that it is distributed as evenly as possible. We connect the elements using pins vertically.
- Next, we make a seam on the machine. Sewing should be done in separate sections, adjusting the elastic tension and straightening the fabric from the bottom.
We list some of the nuances that are worth paying attention to.
- When constructing the pattern, more experienced designers and seamstresses can draw only the upper part of the pattern on paper, and then continue to draw the drawing already on the fabric using a piece of soap or crayon. This is especially convenient for long products.
TIP! Novice masters should not save on tracing paper or paper and make a drawing even for long and wide styles as a whole.
- A trapezoidal skirt can be sewn even without a belt. To do this, it is necessary to grind the top of the product. From the waistline down, it is necessary to postpone to 4 cm, cut the resulting part and connect the tucks. Next, transfer the pattern to the material and make allowances for the seams.
With the help of trapezoidal skirts, you can create many images in the framework of both business style and evening fashion. This style is suitable for absolutely all girls. And you can sew a fashionable new thing quickly enough, guided by the advice of experienced craftsmen.