For many years, the petticoat was a mandatory attribute of a women's wardrobe. It was used to add volume to ball gowns, then in the 50s and 60s. For several decades, the petticoat came out of everyday life. But fashion is cyclical and today its use can again be relevant not only at weddings and children's parties, but also on weekdays.
How to sew a petticoat with your own hands - on what material to stop?
Petticoats can be diverse in length, style, layering and stiffness.
For wedding dresses, a rigid cone with rings is often used. This will allow you to sew the petticoat light and well-kept in shape.
For a tough option, tulle is used. It can be different in stiffness, but the most rigid tulle is most suitable. Often, a single layer of tulle is enough to give volume. True, its main drawback is its causticity . He scratches his legs, and sometimes tears tights. Therefore, a layer of soft tissue is usually added between the body and the skirt of the craftswoman.
Soft tulle is not very suitable for a petticoat. It will require several layers, which increases the consumption of tissue. But from this tulle you can sew a popular tutu skirt and wear it as a petticoat or separately.
Choose the style of the petticoat
The simplest style is a fabric rectangle pulled around the waist on a belt or elastic. In a similar fashion, Tatyana skirts are sewn. If the tulle is hard and the volume obtained is enough, the petticoat is ready.
For a larger volume, several layers are joined together. So that the design is not bulky or heavy, the petticoat is made single-layer and on the rings. It is suitable for evening or ball gowns.
Another style of the petticoat is the A-silhouette with frills and frills. It gives volume smoothly, suitable for children's dresses. For production, you need soft tulle in several layers. It is about such a petticoat that will be discussed in the master class below.
Workshop on how to sew a magnificent petticoat for a dress
To build a pattern, 2 measurements are enough:
- half hips;
- the length of the petticoat.
Next, R waist and R lengths are calculated and a half-sun pattern is drawn.
R waist = (hips + 10 cm to fit) / π
R length = R waist + length of the petticoat.
3 ruffles are enough for a skirt to the knees. They should be equally spaced from each other. To do this, 10-12 cm recede above the waist line and outline the first frill line. The remaining length of the skirt is divided by 3 and get the distance between the frills. If the resulting number is not a multiple of 3, the height of the indent from the waist can be adjusted.
After that, calculate the length of fabric that will be required for each frill. Here you need 2 measurements: R waist, indentation length and the length of the remaining skirt.
Formulas for calculating each frill starting from the top:
1: (R waist + indent length) * π
2: (R waist + indent length + 1/3 of the remaining length) * π
3: (R waist + padding + 2/3 of the remaining length) * π
As a result, all frills will reach the edge of the skirt, but the top will be the longest.
Each assembly is pulled to the length of the arc. And the contraction coefficient can be taken arbitrarily. For the upper skirt, it is better to take a coefficient of 3, and for the lower one, a larger coefficient, for example, 5, is acceptable.
If the tulle is hard, then the frill can be single-layer, for a softer tulle it is better to use a two-layer frill.
Then it remains only to assemble the skirt:
- Each frill must be pulled to the length of the arc. If the frill is single-layered, then a line is laid on a typewriter, stepping back 1 cm from above. In a two-layer frill, a line is laid exactly in the middle along the entire frill.
- Then the frills tighten the skirt to the length.
- On the pattern, a half-skirt skirt outlines the lines of frills. The skirt will have one seam - the back. 1 cm from its edge is left for grinding.
- First, pin the top frill and attach it on a typewriter.
- Also come with a medium frill and bottom.
- When all the frills are sewn, they are ironed with a warm iron so that they do not puff.
- Now the skirt is sewn along the back seam.
- An elastic band equal to the length of the belt of the skirt is cut out of the smooth fabric. Belt Width: 2 gum widths + 2 cm.
- The belt is pinned to the skirt belt, then the elastic is sewn into the ring and put into the belt.
- After that, the belt can be closed and sewn.
- If the tulle is very stiff, you can cut a lining from the fabric rectangle before sewing the belt. She is pinned to the skirt from the inside to the wrong side and a belt is sewn.
Sewing a petticoat is not so difficult. For a simple one, 1 hour of free time is required. But immediately you can use it in your own wardrobe. The petticoat is suitable not only for festive events. It will be relevant in light spring weather or hot summers, and it will also add playfulness to the image.
