The choice of material and product model
The process of making a dress begins with the choice of fabric. The range of guipure colors is amazing. It is used as the main fabric.
Guipure dresses are sewn with a lining, which is chosen so that the lace pattern is clearly visible. It should be darker, lighter or in a contrasting color. Use satin, satin or silk.
The model is selected with a simple design so that the tucks and seams do not violate the pattern. If the guipure is not elastic, fitted silhouettes will not work.
- Pins english
- Chalk or remnant
- Sewing machine
- Tape measure
Pattern and Cutting
All patterns are built according to the standards taken from the figure or translated from fashion magazines and are adjusted to the desired size.
The finished pattern is superimposed on the wrong side of the lining fabric, fastened with pins and encircled. Allowances for straight cuts - 1 cm, for the neck and armhole - 0.5 cm . Breaks out. This process is repeated with guipure. The most winning motifs of the picture are used. All details of the cut are placed on the fabric and only after that they are cut out. All chalk lines are carried to the other side. Having prepared done, we proceed to the next stage of work, we sew a dress.
Guipure material is difficult to process, so the process requires a certain skill and knowledge. Sections of allowances are overcast on the overlock, processed with an oblique inlay or cut along the contour and superimposed on each other, and then fixed with a zigzag stitch or manually. You can also use an inverted seam: seams are sewn along the front side, and then on the wrong side. In dresses with sleeves, the armhole is also processed in this way.
On the main and lining fabric, all tucks and seams must be wiped. A sheet of paper is placed between the product and the material feeder to protect the thin tissue from tearing. The seam width when sewing is 0.5 cm . To sew a fashionable dress with your own hands, you need to use thin sewing needles No. 75 and silk threads, and for tensile guipure - knitting needles .
The neck and bottom of the product is processed with a curly edge or silk lace ribbon. Elastic guipure requires a different treatment - check your material for extensibility, if it stretches well, then it is better to use cotton tape to strengthen it.
The zipper is inserted into the middle or side seam, depending on the chosen style of the product. The edges of the zipper are edged with a seam allowance or oblique hem.
Three different methods can be used to create a lining for a guipure dress.
- It is made as an independent dress, removable - it is not attached to the main fabric, it is used with other dresses.
- The lining and base are sewn together as a unit. A mark is applied in the center of the back and front. Side and shoulder seams are sutured. The bottom of the product is folded along with the lining. The bottom of the lining may be shorter than the main product, then it is processed to grind the side seam.
- The neck lining is attached to the base. The side and shoulder seams are pre-grinded. The front side of the lining is superimposed on the front side of the main fabric and turned. The cut is cut at regular intervals, not reaching the machine line of 0.1 cm. The seam allowances are unbent on the lining and trimmed.
You can also make a beautiful two-tone lining, then the model takes the form of a skirt and blouse.
It is very important to iron lace at a low temperature using an iron (a piece of white cotton fabric) so as not to damage the guipure.
Guipure is a rather complex material that requires certain skills in handling it. The acquired experience will be useful for subsequent work: decorating with lace inserts of any dresses, to your own taste, and creating unusual models. Patterns are recommended to be saved, as they may be needed in the future to create other models.