How long should a men's jacket be?

Perhaps there is no more ideal and courageous image than a man in a business suit. But how often the most expensive and high-quality costume turns into a shapeless canvas for one banal reason - it doesn’t “sit”. Therefore, before choosing the perfect suit, it is important to study the features of choosing a jacket - it is he who is dominant in the whole set.

How should a men's jacket

The jacket can “sit” in different ways - be “poured”, hang out or be free to move. Regardless of the model you choose, there are still clear rules for a successful landing. Having put on the selected model, it is necessary to analyze the following indicators:

  • The shoulders of the jacket should form a straight line along their own shoulders. It is completely unacceptable that the line of the shoulder seam was in any other place, instead of the shoulder itself. If the seam is not even, hangs, sticks out - the product must be sent to the hanger.
  • The jacket should be perfect from the back. To check the fit, you need to spread your arms to the sides, then slowly stretch them in front of you. A perfect fit and size will not cause any inconvenience with these simple movements. If, with outstretched arms, the "pulled" back - the jacket is small, it is worth looking for a different size.

TIP! To assess the size of the jacket, it is worth looking at yourself in the side mirror. Too large a size will be visible with a “bubble” on the back, and a small one will feel cramped and uncomfortable.

  • The collar of the selected model should ideally bend around the neck, not pressing on it, but also not forming a free distance. The shirt should be 1.5 cm higher than the collar of the jacket.
  • Jacket sleeves with lowered hands should form a straight line, without “bubbles” and folds. The convenient width of the sleeve can be defined as follows: bend the hand, “hiding” it in the sleeve, and make a fist inside. If it was possible to do this and there is no free space around the fist, the width is good.

Modern models differ in slots - back cuts. The model may not have a slot - then it is an Italian design, have 1 slot - we have an American style. The jacket with two slots on the sides belongs to the English style of design. In Italian models without a slot, movements will be more constrained than in other versions. With proper seating, the slots should not open and puff.

Correct jacket length

If we are talking about the selection of a jacket of a classic model, there are certain rules for its length. In the case when a model of a different style is selected, they are guided by personal feelings and rules of the style. A classic worn jacket should have a length reaching the middle of the palm of the hand lowered along the legs. A good length from the back should partially cover the buttocks, and leave the legs open.

There is another way to determine the appropriate length of the product: the lower edge should divide the silhouette exactly in half.

TIP! Using the length, you can correct the imperfections of the figure: shortened models of the jacket lengthen the legs, and long ones conceal the length of the legs.

Modern manufacturers divide jacket models of the same length into an additional 3 classifications - Short, Regular and Long. Such models will be designated as the capitalization letter on the tag with size. For example, the label 46 / 7R will mean that:

  • 46 - clothing size;
  • R - the product has an average length;
  • 7 is an indicator of the difference in width of the chest of the product and the belt of the pants, expressed in inches.

When choosing jackets with such lettering, you need to understand that for tall men, a model with the S marking will not work, and for short men you need to bypass the variation L.

The correct length of the sleeve of the jacket

When choosing a jacket, it is better to be dressed in a shirt that is familiar in style and length. It is along the length of the sleeve of the shirt that it is convenient to select the length of the sleeve of the jacket. The standard permissible length of the shirt cuff, peeking from under the sleeve of the jacket is 1-1.5 cm.

To measure the appropriate length of the sleeve of the jacket without putting on a shirt, you can use 2 methods:

  • Put it on, lower your arms along your legs, bend the thumb of the big hand as far as possible - focus on this level of sleeve length.
  • Measure 12 cm from the tip of the thumb and fix the mark. This will be the level of the length of the sleeve of the jacket.

In addition to length, you need to pay attention to the fit of the entire sleeve. With arms down, the sleeve should be a clear, even line. When the arms are bent, “bubbles”, strong folds should not form in the sleeve, and should not tighten the arm at the seam. It is important to consider that when walking you need to move your hands, and too narrow armhole will hamper the natural movement.

IMPORTANT! The length of the sleeve of the jacket cannot be underestimated. Even if the model fits perfectly in the shoulders, chest and overall length, but the sleeves are too long and cover the fingers, the whole image will be irretrievably corrupted.

What mistakes to avoid

The range of jackets is incredibly wide. Various textures, colors, styles, styles are also presented. But each image, which includes a jacket, may have a number of errors that greatly spoil the impression.

The main shortcomings look like this:

  • The collar of the jacket is simply obliged to fit snugly to the neck. Creases in or out of the collar are not allowed.
  • The base of the sleeve should be tailored so that there are no “dips” inward on the outstretched arm.
  • The buttons of the product in a buttoned-up form should not pull it so that folds form around. Even if the style requires it, the “X” shaped folds near the buttoned buttons look as if the jacket is not in size.
  • As a rule, sleeves are stitched from the inside, which avoids creases along the sleeve. If there are folds, the cut or model quality is unsuccessful.
  • The slots of the model, if any, should lie on the buttocks, but in no case stick out.

Choosing a thing for yourself, it is worthwhile to give the fitting a little more than usual time. Perhaps the same size, but in different models, will sit completely differently. And choosing the perfect model, you can use a jacket for many years if the dimensions of the figure do not change.