Many people mistakenly believe that if the legs are a couple of centimeters longer, then you can not hem them. But in this case, the whole image becomes untidy, and the fabric wears out faster due to constant wrinkles and friction.
How to hem men trousers
To hem trousers to the desired length, you can always turn to professionals in the studio, or you can do it yourself. Moreover, this does not require special education, and in the absence of a sewing machine, you can do with a simple needle and thread.
The correct length of men's trousers
Before you trim and hem the legs, you need to figure out how long they should be at all. Classic pants with arrows, jeans or chinos: each style has its own standards.
Classic
The exception is skinny pants. They should also form a single fold, but the backs can be slightly shorter than the wider model. Ideally, pants of this style should be tried on for specific shoes.
Chinos
This is an informal model, and therefore there are many ways to wear chinos. They are worn with or without a twist. Everything is determined by style and personal style. When choosing a length, you should focus on a simple rule: the narrower the pants, the shorter the length. Although going to extremes is also not recommended. A straight leg should form a crease in the front, otherwise the general view will be sloppy.
Jeans have the same requirements as pants. Narrow models should lie on the shoe, but not wrinkle, and the wide ones should be folded on the shins. Fans of upside down should choose jeans of such a length that they are tucked to expose the maximum of the ankles.
We hem men's trousers
Before hemming, it is best to wash and iron the trousers. This is necessary, since many fabrics can “sit down” after the first wash. The procedure for the different trousers is the same, but the greatest difficulty is the hemming of the classic. The main condition: the seam should not be visible.
Classic men's trousers with braid
Preparation, measurement
It is best to measure the desired length during the fitting process and only with shoes and a belt on. In extreme cases, you can make a mark on other pants that are already worn.
Measurement steps during the trial:
- tuck the excess length outward to the desired level;
- fasten with pins on the back and front;
- put chalk marks on future edges.
Important! If the measurement is not taken on a person, but on other trousers, you need to navigate along the inside of the legs (step seam).
Working process
After marking, the trousers are folded on a flat surface. It is necessary to connect the legs so that the waist line coincides. Fasten the legs with pins so that the fabric does not move.
Procedure:
- Focusing on the labels draw straight lines. This is most conveniently done with a ruler-corner.
Reference! In some cases, the line may be sloping, with a decrease to the back of the trousers.
- The distance from the line is 4–5 cm. This is the necessary margin for stock. Using the same corner, draw a second line parallel to the first. This will be the cut line.
- Cut off excess.
- Work overlock edge. Instead of overlock, you can sew a zigzag stitch on a regular sewing machine or process it manually.
- In the first line (hem), attach a trouser tape and stitch it with two lines along the edges. The first should go as close as possible to the edge of the tape and the hem line. It is very important to pull the fabric and braid with the same effort, otherwise the edge will be sloppy.
Important! The braid section must be tucked in and stitched, otherwise it will begin to blossom over time.
- Fold in the edge of the legs along the line of the braid. The edge of the tape should peek out at 0.5-1 mm.
- Carefully iron the hem on the inside.
- Flash with a special “invisible” line on a typewriter.
- Iron the pants again through a damp cloth.
Hem pants manually
If there is no sewing machine (or it does not have a “secret” stitch function), you can also hem manually.
The procedure remains the same. The edge is hemmed by a hidden seam manually. So that from the outside of the stitches it is not visible, with a needle you need to grab only 2-3 threads.
It is very important not to pull the thread, otherwise the seam will be visible. The line should be relaxed.
Some tips
- For jeans, special threads and needles are used, and the bending line is tapped with a hammer.
- Knitwear is also hemmed only with special needles.
- For summer trousers, light stock is made from lightweight fabric less (1-1.5 cm), and the braid, if used, is only on the back side.
- For marks it is best to use not chalk, but soap. So it will be easier to get rid of traces on the fabric.
- If you need to hem immediately, but there is no machine, you can use double-sided non-woven. To do this, the tape is superimposed on the bend, steamed with an iron on one side, then the edge is bent and steamed on the other. However, do not forget that this solution is temporary and will require complete processing later.
- If the pants have decorative inserts, you can shorten these seams. This is especially true for models with cuffs and an elastic band on the legs.
And finally, the advice: if there is not the slightest understanding of which side to approach the sewing machine, and the needle has already rusted for a long time, then it’s better to hand over the trousers in the atelier. So, time will be saved, and the thing will definitely not go bad. Moreover, this service is quite inexpensive.
